De Vogue – Chambolle Musigny

(Jun. 10, 2015) — The business has been in the family for 20 generations, and over the past 450 years there have been a few ups and downs. The best de Vogüé reds were once regularly ranked among Burgundy’s top half dozen. The 1945 Comte de Vogüé Grand Cru Musigny was one of the two great French red wines served at the banquet to celebrate the 2500th anniversary of the Persian Empire, but by the time Comte Georges died in 1987, the de Vogüé reputation had been in decline since the 1972 vintage. His daughter, Elisabeth de Ladoucette (yes, THAT de Ladoucette: she married into Pouilly Fumé) set about restoring Domaine de Vogüé to greatness.

It helps to own the major portion of Grand Cru Musigny where workers are reputed to shake their boots clean before leaving the vineyard so as not to waste any of the precious earth. It also helps to own over 2½ hectares of Grand Cru Bonnes-Mares. But terroir alone does not a reputation make. A “dream team” was assembled. Francois Millet, oenologist, was hired by Elisabeth as winemaker, along with Gérard Gaudeau who remained vineyard manager for 10 years before he was succeeded by the aptly named François Bourgogne. Since 2002 the domaine has been run by the Comte’s granddaughters, Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette.

Our tasting includes the 1985 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. It hails from the pre-revival era, but 1985 was the best Burgundy vintage of the decade. You can compare this with the 1994 Bonnes-Mares along with the other Grand Cru, the Musigny Vieilles Vignes, and the village wine, Chambolle-Musigny, from the same year. We also have de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1995, 2002, and 2004. And to round out our group of eight wines we have a 2004 Premier Cru that isn’t.

Beginning in 1995, de Vogüé has produced a generic wine named simply Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru in addition to its named Premiers Crus such as Les Amoreuses. The grapes for that generic Premier Cru come from Grand Cru Musigny vines younger than 25 years, declassified to Premier Cru status. Think of it as a Grand Cru still wearing schoolboy shorts.

Is Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé back on top among red Burgundy producers? Join us on Wednesday, June 10th to explore the answer to that question in a most enjoyable way.

As always with our tastings, this event will be strictly non-smoking, and we request your cooperation in not wearing any scented after-shave or perfume. Using public transit is strongly encouraged.

Date: Wednesday, June 10, 2015	North York Memorial Community Hall
Time: 6:30 p.m.	5110 Yonge St. (under library)
Limit: 122 people	North York Centre Subway
Members: $73 (incl. HST)	Guests: $88 (incl. HST)

Cancellations accepted up to June 5, 2015. See the event form for cancellation contact details. No reservations by phone, please. No confirmations will be issued — you will be contacted only if we are sold out. First come basis. Non-members may attend at guest rates, but preference will be given to members.

Download the event form if you wish to mail in your reservation cheque.